Wednesday, January 4, 2017

Salvaging a Wreck or Making Caramels

I'm getting things a bit out of order here, but I figure that's better than not posting at all.

Back before Christmas I was working on making cherry cordials and thought I'd be thrifty, and give them more cherry flavor, by using ALL of the syrup the cherries came in. This isn't a totally bad idea, but it's success is dependant on what that syrup is made of. Specifically how much of the sugar in the syrup is sucrose, and how much is fructose and or  glucose, AND how much of the original sucrose (if there was any) has been converted into invert sugar (glucose and fructose) by the acid, either natural or added, usually in the form of citric acid to increase tartness. The fondant recipe I was using did not call for invertase but relied on a careful ratio of sucrose to fructose/glucose to get the right... but that's another post. My attempted recipe change left me with a large amount of mixed sugars that had boiled off all their cherry flavor, but still had a red color.
Boiling sugar solution.

Back to caramel. Caramel is not nearly so sensitive to the ratio of sugars, its texture is far more
controlled by the temperature, and thus the moisture, and the ratio of dairy/fat to sugars. So, I decided to make caramel from this large quantity of mixed sugars.

I read a number of recipes with widely varying  ratios of sugar to dairy/fat, some called for it all to be combined at the beginning, others had the sugar and water heated separately from the dairy, some even called for "frozen non-dairy coffee creamer" I'm not sure I've ever seen such a product. I am sure I don't want it in my caramel.




Caramel cooling in a glass baking dish.

I found this article and recipe from Emma Christensen, the reasoning in the article made sense to me
and I liked the ratio (generous dairy) so I did something smart. I made a first batch following the recipe (not using the mixed sugars) and poured it into a generously greased glass 9" square pan. It seemed to work well, but when I checked it in the morning, only the corners had a good consistency, the closer to the center the more grainy it became.

In an effort to salvage this first batch, I added some water, re-heated/melted/boiled it then poured it out on a silicon mat on my counter where it cooled much more quickly and didn't form sugar crystals. But they did reform when I left it on the silicon mat in the oven at low temperature, but that's more of a geology lesson than candy making.

It is worth noting that, while laser thermometers may be good for some things in the kitchen, they are not adequate for making candy. In my experience the readings were between 8 and 10 deg. F lower than shown on my real candy thermometer.




1 comment:

  1. This is a dangerous hobby for someone you know to have. Yum!

    ReplyDelete